Category Archives: Balatonfüred-Csopak

Women winemakers out in force on International Women’s Day

The weaker sex? Certainly not!

Tomorrow, 8 March, is International Women’s Day, and in celebration of all women, 32 Hungarian women winemakers from 12 wine regions will present 104 wines to visitors of the Gyengébb? Nem! Cherchez la Femme wine show at the Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge.

This is the second time that the event has been organised by Edit Szabó of Borsmenta. The idea grew out of her book Gyengébb? Nem! Roughly translated, this means ’The weaker sex? No!’ It relates the stories of 26 women winemakers in Hungary and how they cope in a traditionally male-dominated industry, hence the title.

The winemakers will bring along some of their brand new novelties for curious wine lovers. For example, Katalin Toth will present their 2018 Kadarka Siller, Andrea Gere their 2017 Fekete Járdovány and Syrah, Júlia Dóra Molnár from Csendes Dűlő their 2017 premium Kéknyelű and Éva Gálné Dignisz will show their hot-off-the-press fizz. There’ll also be a couple of pet nats to try from the Szőlő Pincészet and the Heimann Családi Pincészet.

A gentleman, however, will look after the food! Alain Losbar, the Sofitel’s head chef will osztrigaensure nobody goes hungry and will delight your taste buds with fresh oysters, ham, cheeses and other French delicacies.

If you’re inspired to travel to the enchanting wine regions the ladies come from, or even beyond, three more ladies, from Wine A’more travel, are on hand to help you fulfil your inspirations with their offer of wine trips and tastings.

All in a good cause

Another reason to come along is the fact that the ladies have waived their fees for the event and thus half a million forints (around €1,600) has already been raised for charity. This total is sure to grow as visitors can also add their contributions in the collection boxes at the event. The monies collected will go to the Anyaoltalmazó Foundation, which helps 75-80 women and children in distress all around the country every year.

Chocolate and cheese-pairing masterclasses

Those who are interested in learning more about what wines to pair with various cheeses and chocolate can also attend two masterclasses. Tickets are available for these at 3,000 forints.

So, if you’ve nothing planned for tomorrow evening, head to the Sofitel to celebrate Women’s Day with a remarkably talented group of women!

When: 8 March 16:00-21:30

Where: Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge

Tickets: 7,000 HUF until midnight tonight, then 8,500 HUF on the door.

Advance tickets available online at: https://tixa.hu/CherchezLaFemme_avagygyengebb_nem?fbclid=IwAR1TaPt8VS6YXDgOuK48plDC0vgIIIKwB5Im406Hg_wDWZq8B9y5ObhEKQc

The price includes wines, nibbles on the winemakers’ tables and water.

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/2362393133989988/

Participating winemakers:

ANGELIKA ÁRVAY (Árvay Családi Pincészet), ZSUZSANNA BABARCZI (Babarczi Szőlőbirtok és Pince), KATA BADICS (Homoky Pincészet), EDIT BAI (Dereszla Pincészet), NÓRA BARACSKAI (Etyeki Kúria Borgazdaság), SAROLTA BÁRDOS (Tokaj Nobilis), STÉPHANIE BERECZ (Kikelet Pince), BOGLÁRKA BÖJT (Bortársaság), DOROTTYA BUSSAY (Bussay Pincészet), KRISZTINA CSETVEI (Csetvei Pince), MÓNIKA DEBRECZENI (Vylyan Pincészet), BERNADETT DUNAI (Dubicz Pincészet) TÍMEA ÉLESS (Szóló Pincészet), ÉVA GÁLNÉ DIGNISZ (Gál Szőlőbirtok és Pincészet), ANDREA GERE (Gere Attila Pincészete), SUSANN HANAUER, (Wassmann Pince), ÁGNES HEIMANN (Heimann Családi Birtok), ZITA KOVÁCS (Kovács és Lánya Borászat), ZSÓFI LAPOSA (Laposa Birtok), LILLA LATORCZAI-RÁCZ, ENIKŐ LUKA (Luka Pince), ANITA MAGYAR (Hangavári Pincészet), GABRIELLA MÉSZÁROS  (Préselő Pincészet), JÚLIA DÓRA MOLNÁR (Csendes Dűlő Szőlőbirtok), BEÁTA NYÚLNÉ PÜHRA (Nyakas Pincészet), FRUZSINA OSVÁTH (Sauska Borászat), ERIKA RÁCZ (Sanzon Tokaj), JELENA SZAVERCSENKO, (Kern Bor- és Pezsgőház), KATALIN TÓTH (Tóth Ferenc Pincészet), VIVIEN UJVÁRI (Ujvári + Barta Pince), MÁRTA WILLE-BAUMKAUFF (Tokaj Pendits), KATA ZSIRAI (Zsirai Pincészet)

Photos courtesy of Borsmenta, Ferenc Dancsecs and Gábor Vető

 

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The Winemakers’ Winemaker

In 2007, Pál Rokúsfalvy organised the Borászok Borásza – the Winemakers’ Winemaker – for the first time. He set up the award as he felt there should be an award where the winemakers themselves, the people who are actually behind the wines, have a say in who is Winemaker of the Year. Much progress has been made in the Hungarian winemaking world since the change of regime in 1989 and Hungarian winemakers are increasingly turning out wines that can compete with the best in the world. What better way to celebrate this than a competition which reflects their attitudes.

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The Carpathian Basin’s fifty best winemakers

Each year, winemakers nominate the Carpathian Basin’s top winemakers themselves. These fifty winemakers meet for a tasting circle, they then vote to decide on a shortlist of five, and finally another round of votes leads to the overall winner. This year, the tasting circle was also followed by an open tasting where selected guests and a limited number of the general public could taste the wines of the fifty nominees and the previous ten winners. An exclusive tasting indeed, held at the Larus Restaurant in Buda. This gave me the chance to find out a bit more about this award and, of course, to taste some of the wines of the top winemakers of the region, as selected by the winemakers themselves.

The Winemakers’ Friend

The Vinum Praemium Foundation was set up in 2009 to manage the organisation of the competition and since 2012, they have not only selected the top winemaker, but also a so-called Winemakers’ friend, which last year was awarded to British Master of Wine, Caroline Gilby MW. This prize goes to someone who has made particular contributions to the promotion and development of Hungarian wine. Previous winners of the award are Dr András Csizmadia, Helga Gál, László Alkonyi, Dr Gabriella Mészáros and Mária Borbás.

The 2019 contenders

The fifty winemakers in the running for the award this year are:

János Árvay (Árvay Pincészet), Károly Áts (Grand Tokaj), István Balassa (Balassa Bor). Géza Balla (Balla Géza Pincészet), Sarolta Bárdos (Tokaj Nobilis Szőlőbirtok), Károly Barta (Barta Pince), Jószef Bock (Bock Pincészet), Judit Bodó (Bott Pince), János Bolki (Bolyki Pincészet és Szőlőbirtok), Frigyes Bott (Bott Frigyes Borászat), Marcell Bukolyi (Bukolyi Marcell Wine Farm), Tamás Dúzsi (Dűzsi Tamás és Családja Pincészete), János Eszterbauer (Eszterbauer Borászat), Mihály Figula (Figula Wines), Tibor Gál Jr (Gál Tibor Pincészet), Attila Gere (Gere Attila Pincészete), Zoltán Heimann (Heimann Családi Birtok), Attila Homonna (Homonna Pincészet), József “Raspi” Horváth (Raspi Étterem és Borászat), István Szabó Ipacs (Vylyan Szőlőbirtok és Pincészet), Gábor Karner (Karner Gábor Kezműves Borászat), Gábor Kiss (Kiss Gábor Szőlőbirtok és Pincészete). Dániel Konyári (Konyári Pincészet), Tamás Kocács (St Donát Birtok), Bence Laposa (Laposa Pincészet), Géza Légli (Kislaki Bormanufaktúra), Zsolt Liptai (Pannonhalmi Apátsági Pincészet), Bálint Losonci (Losconci Pince), Enikő Luka (Luka Pincészet), Csaba Malatinszky (Malatinszky Kúria), Maurer Oszkár (Maurer Pincészet), Sándor Mérész (Etyeki Kúria), Lászlő Mészáros (Disznókő), Péter Molnár (Patricius Borház), László Nagy (Villa Tolnay), Gyula Pálffy (Pálffy Pince), Gábor Rakaczki (Sauska), Endre Szászi (Szászi Pince), Tamás Szecskő (Szeczkő Pince), István Szepsy Jr (Szent Tamás Pincészet), László Szilágyi (Gizella Pince), Ferenc Takler (Takler Pince), Zoltán Tarnóczi (Orsolya Pince), Vilmos Thummerer (Thummerer Pince), Ede Tiffán (Tiffán Ede és Zsolt Pincészete), György Várszegi (Kreinbacher Birtok), Ferenc Vesztergombi (Vesztergombi Pince), Péter Vida (Vida Családi Borbirtok) Franz Weninger (Weninger Pincészet) and Márta Wille-Baumkauff (Pendits Pincészet).

More than half of Hungary’s wine regions were represented, with winemakers from Tokaj, Villány, Eger, Szekszárd, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Sopron, Mátra, Badacsony, Pannonhalma, Balatonfelvidék, Somló, Balatonboglár and Etyek-Buda as well as winemakers from just across the borders from Szerémseg (Syrmia) in Serbia, Garam Mente (Hron) in Slovakia and Ménes (Minis) Romania.

So, if you’re less familiar with Hungarian wines or want to discover some new winemakers, if you pick wines from any of these wineries, you should rarely be disappointed.

Naturally, we shouldn’t forget its ten previous winners either: János Konyári, István Jásdi, András Bacsó, Dr László Bussay, Stephanie Berecz, József Szentesi, Imre Györgkovács, Ottó Légli, István Szepsy Sr, Dr György Lőrincz (St Andrea Szőlőbirtok és Pincészet) and Zoltán Demeter.

We wait with bated breath for the announcement of the shortlisted five winemakers, the overall winner and, of course, the Winemakers’ Friend 2019.

Surprising Cabernet Francs from the northern shore of the Balaton

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The Borsmenta press club recently put 13 wines made from Villány’s favourite grape, Cabernet Franc, to the test, with some surprising results. Five were from its southern stronghold; however, the rest were selected from regions as varied as Szekszárd, Tolna, Balatonfelvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak and Badacsony. The line up included a range of styles, ranging from bright, light and fruity to more oaky and dense. We even tasted an intriguing white Franc.

The results were reassuring, yet also surprising, with Villány taking top place and joint second. However, the northern shore of the Balaton also turned up some real gems, scooping up joint second, fourth and fifth places. What’s more, number five is a real best buy, at just 3,000 HUF from Bortársaság!

_DRO71891. Kiss Gábor Pincészete Code 2016 (Villány)

A rich, mouth-filling, structured wine with ripe tannins and plenty of bright acidity. A chalky note, a touch of green bell pepper and some tertiary character creeping in add complexity. Nicely integrated oak and a salty, mineral thread running through it keep it fresh right till the end of its long finish.

_DRO71872. Bakonyi Péter Pincészete Bakonyi Siklos 2017 (Villány)

An attractive cornucopia of raspberry and blue berries with a touch of green capsicum and violets. Crisp acidity and slightly grippy tannins but lovely varietal character. An appealing cool mineral streak balances the ripe fruit and the wines ends with a long, elegant finish.

_DRO71842. Villa Tolnay Pincészet Csobáncz Cabernet Franc 2016 (Badacsony)

Beautiful ripe red and black fruit with redcurrants and cherry jam, maybe even a Mon Cheri chocolate or two. Lively, fresh acidity and fine ripe tannins give the wine a lovely framework, and it’s all freshened up by a cool, lean zip of minerals.

_DRO71814. Jásdi Pince Ranolder Vörös 2015 (Balatonfüred-Csopak)

A complex wine with fresh, ripe red fruit, including rosehip, cherry and crunchy plum. It’s showing some maturity with notes of tea and tobacco but also with a fresh zip of mineral, lime and green capsicum. Ripe on the palate with judicious oaking and smooth tannins. Balanced and long.

_DRO71835. Liszkay Pincészet Giuia 2016 (Balatonfelvidék)

A spicy blend of rosehip, redcurrants and sour cherries in cognac with a cool menthol note adding a breath of freshness and some complexity. There’s a pleasant green note and the tannins have a touch of grip. Bright crisp acidity and a long fresh finish.

Photos by Gábor Vető

Csopaki Kódex

Hewlett-PackardThe last masterclass of the day was related to Csopak, which is part of the Balatonfüred-Csopak wine district. This part of the wine district consists of the villages of Csopak, Paloznak, Lovas, Alsóörs and Felsőörs.

In the past, the main grape varieties to be found around the Balaton were Szigeti (a.k.a. Furmint) and Kadarka. Sixty percent of plantings were black varieties, whereas nowadays white varieties dominate, although there is no one grape variety closely associated with any of the wine districts or indeed the Balaton wine region itself.csopk_piramis_honlap_trükk

Csopak is trying to change this; in fact, it has long been associated with Olaszrizling and in an attempt to create a clear identity for itself, in 2012 it created something called the Csopaki Kódex (Csopak Codex) and the first year when it was applied to the wines was 2013. This is a kind of ‘quality pyramid’ for wines produced in any vineyards of the five villages which make up Csopak. The wine must be dry Olaszrizling and it must meet certain criteria in order to be able to display the Csopaki Kódex label.

The Kódex is a three-level pyramid. The lowest level is Csopak Körzet, which is generic wine from Csopak, so a kind of ‘Csopak villages’ – wine can come from any of the five villages. The next level up is VND Csopak ‘premier cru’ – here the wine has to come from 26 ‘premier cru’ vineyard areas (dülő). The top level is VNDC Csopak where the wine is then vineyard selected.

In order to qualify for the Kódex, the wines have to meet certain criteria relating to yields, residual sugar, filtering, acidity, aroma profile and alcohol level (12-13%). It should also have been aged at least six months in oak/tank and three in bottle.

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The wine should be bottled in Burgundy style bottles, closed with a quality cork and black capsule, and bear the Kódex sticker.

The aroma profile of the wines should feature almond and rhubarb and mineral notes from the soils, which in Csopak are dolomite, marl and red sandstone.

Since 2013, the number of registered growers has risen from eleven to fourteen.

We got to taste wines from the following registered vineyards: Szent Donát Birtok, Petrányi Pince, Guden Birtok, Koralevits Pince, Jásdi Pince and Fekete Pince.