Somló wines are quite distinct in character. Sticking your nose into the glass, you can often tell at first sniff that they have been produced in Somló. A whiff of smoky volcano tends to dominate the nose. They are rather high in acidity and can be lacking in fruit. Although the best examples combine ripe fruit and smoky stoniness.
Last week I attended a tasting of twenty Somló wines presented at the Gellért hotel. I am usually quite a fan of well-made Somló wines, enjoying the combination of minerality and juicy fruit. However, on this occasion, I was a little disappointed by some of the wines, finding them rather tart, overly acidic and somewhat ‘fruit backward‘. I particularly enjoyed the following wines:
Györgykovács Imre’s 2012 Hárslevelű – A potent, mouth-filling concoction of ripe peach and mandarin, with aromas of honeysuckle and hazelnut, tempered with a little saltiness and lingering in the mouth with a long elegant finish. Delicious.
Kreinbacher’s 2012 Öreg Tőkék (Hárslevelű, Olaszrizling and Furmint) – Produced from old vines, this wine showed flavours of honey, baked spiced apple, apple, lemon and mandarin. A touch of salt and a lingering finish.
Zsirai’s Somlai 2011 (Olaszrizling, Juhfark and Hárslevelű) – Having visited the Zsirai winery in Mád a few weeks ago, it was great to have the chance to try one of their Somló wines. One of fruitiest of the wines tasted today – baked apple, spicy vanilla, with a touch of salted almonds. The rich fruit balanced the acidity nicely.
Fekete Pince’s 2009 Juhfark – Juhfark is a variety typical to Somló, probably an acquired taste in many cases, but definitely worth seeking out if you want to try something unusual. A pale golden wine with a pronounced intensity. In some ways rather austere, with a good dose of smoke and flint, but a lot of ripe stone fruits – apricot and peach – and some honeysuckle helps to balance this. Some lovely tertiary flavours of marmalade and honey coming through and, leaving the best to last, a bit of cat’s pee (probably what makes Juhfark a bit of an acquired taste! Can be a bit pungent sometimes.). A slightly bitter, but not unpleasant finish.
Somlói Apátsági Pince’s 2013 Juhfark – An off dry full-bodied wine bursting with ripe mandarins, pears, apricots and peaches. A slightly waxy nose with some hints of vanilla.
Tornai Pincészet’s 2013 Premium Juhfark – A complex, oily wine with orange, peach, pear and grapefruit, some floral and vegetal characteristics and a long slightly bitter, stony finish.
Somló Kincse Kézművés Kispince’s 2013 Bolyongó (késői Olaszrizling) – A dry late harvest wine with bags of fruit – apricot, pear, marmalade, spiced baked apple, nuttiness, honey and a pinch of salt. A waxy complex wine with a touch of botrytis; it has the waxy bitterness of an orange wine.
The tasting was presented by the Somlói borok boltja, where you can buy these wines, indeed they stock over 160 types of Somló wine if you develop a taste for it.