Since they were established in 1999, after György Lőrincz, owner and oenologist, won a local wine competition with a wine he had made for his father and named after his wife, Andrea, they have won many awards and medals at both Hungarian and international wine competitions.
I was delighted to have the chance to taste a wide range of the wines, from quite a variety of vintages, I might add. Especially since Dr György Lőrincz himself presented them to us and gave us some background on the establishment of the vineyard and its development since then.
Ironically the wine with which Gyuri won the local Eger competition in 1999 was a Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape variety he no longer grows.
There were thirteen wines on our tasting list, the majority of which were not from this decade, so we were certainly in for a treat!
We started off with two very different whites: one from 2012 and one from 2003. The colour of the latter was just amazing.
A crisp, dry wine with some flowery notes and a good backbone of minerality, clearly demonstrating its terroir. Fresh, with a touch of lemony zest on the palate. Delicious.
A vineyard blend from the ‘Boldogságos’ dülő, consisting of olaszrizling, szürkebarát (that’s pinot grigio to you and me), viognier and sauvignon blanc.
A quick trawl around a couple of wine webshops shows it to be retailing at about 3000 HUF.
A luscious deep golden colour in the glass. Aromas of marmalade, honey, peach and quince explode on the nose. It could almost be a Tokaj aszú! Doesn’t disappoint on the palate either – toast, honey, marmalade, vanilla also fill your mouth, with good underlying minerality and a slightly bitter note. Perhaps also a little honeysuckle. And a long, long finish. What a treat. And very fresh for an eleven-year-old Egri white.
A blend of chardonnay, olaszrizling and szürkebarát.
Just discovered it won bronze in the Challenge International du Vin, 2004, Bordeaux.
I’m quite sure you can’t buy this anywhere now, though!
Now for a couple of relatively old Kadarka’s, where we were able to compare two vintages.
Magyalos Kadarka 2007
Medium ruby, more secondary aromas on the nose – tobacco, chocolate, coffee, a hint of pepper and some cherry. A bit sherry like. On the palate, plums, caramel, coffee, cherry. Elegant and long.
Magyalos Kadarka 2005
Very pale in colour, almost amber. Tobacco and toast, caramel, coffee, sour cherry. Taste of aszú grapes. An almost perfume like note. Silky and smooth. Delicious.
Cabernet franc 2002
Currently one of my favourite grapes. Was great to try an older vintage. Medium ruby, a little sediment, but nice legs ;-). Rich chocolate, coffee, tobacco, coal, toast and black fruits on the nose. The palate backed all this up. Long finish. Yum!
Unfortunately, one bottle of this was corked and my tasting came from this..
Medium ruby with a bit of sediment. The nose provided a blast of black cherry, chocolate, tobacco and a hint of sherry. The palate also gave a good dose of smoky minerality, leather, cherry liqueur, pepper, spices and coffee. Just like a good ‘bull’s blood’ should be.
This one fits into the ‘superior’ category of bikavér, rather than just the ‘classico’ like the previous one.
Deeper in colour with a very ‘dark’ nose. Smoky, slatey minerals again with a dose of chocolate and cherry. Elegant, ripe tannins. Oily texture, dense and full-bodied.
Merengő Bikavér 2006
This wine picked up a stack of awards, deservedly, both in Hungary and internationally.
Deep ruby, luscious dark fruits, chocolate and spice both on the nose and the palate. Rounded, well-interated tannins. Smoky and masculine. One to keep.
Merengő Bikavér 2007
Rich terroir wine from the Merengő dülő, full of smoky minerality. Chocolate, black, black fruit and liquorice. Just my kind of wine.
Medium ruby. Again displaying a large whack of granitic minerality. A dense, complex wine bursting with black fruit.
Áldás Bikavér 2011
Amazingly, this wine is the vineyard’s ‘basic’ bikavér. The nose bursts with fresh, ripe black fruits. Chocolate and plum on the palate. A great, everyday, playful wine to quaff with friends.
(HUF 3250 from St Andrea webshop)
Valóban méltó Pinot noir 2009
Another delicious wine. Why break the trend, eh?
Pale ruby, verging on the transparent. Red, peppery fruit – raspberries and cherries. Mineral, smoky notes coming through once again. Surprise, surprise. Terroir, terroir…
Our tasting list was now at an end, but another bottle was produced, a 2011.
(HUF 7590 from St Andrea webshop)
Valóban méltó Pinot noir 2011
Another example of a spicy, peppery, herbal pinot noir. Elegant and long. Wow
And another ….
Hangács Bikavér 2011
Smoky dark fruits. Elegant and balanced. Black cherry and spice. Granite and that terroir thing again.
What can I say. A fabulous tasting, with not a bad wine in sight, except for the unfortunate corked Merlot. Those who got the uncorked version confirmed it was delicious.
Many thanks to Gyuri and Gabriella Meszaros from Borkollegium for a fabulous evening with some delicious wines. Have now booked up quite a few of my Tuesdays for similar!